Aboard the Roseate

This is easily the most luxurious small boat I’ve ever been on. I sleep in the forward cabin, which has two single bunks, one along either side.They meet in a V at the foot end, but it doesn’t seem as though there would be much interference with someone in the other bunk. The forward cabin has a separate bath and shower, with a toilet that flushes considerably more reliably than the “reduced flow” toilet at home. I hesitate even to call it a “head.”The cabin has a overhead ventilator hatch and two fans to keep the air flowing, so it’s very comfortable.

The Roseate has a watermaker, so there is no need for short water rations. Showers every night!

Charlie and Donna are in the aft cabin, which has a nice double bed and a private bath/shower of its own. There are bunks for four others, though they double as couches during the day.

Guaba, who sleeps pretty much where she pleases, completes the company.

The main problem I’ve found with sleeping is the collection of strange noises that the boat makes as it moves at anchor. Shifts in wind or current cause lines to flap and the dinghy to bump into the side. The first night I spent aboard I woke up in the middle of the night convinced that we were being boarded. The next face I expected to see was Johnny Dep’s, possibly followed by a skeleton in the full moon. As I finished waking up, I realized that the wind had shifted and a line was batting against the hull. Since then, I’ve kept one of the fans going just for a white-noise cover.

Getting to shore and back usually involves the dinghy, a rubber boat that we can either tow, for short cruises, or bring on board for longer or rougher ones. It has an electric winch to make moving it around an easy job. Its most vital function in our daily routine is taking Guaba to shore every morning and evening. She seems to be able to hold out during the day, which is pretty amazing to me.

We’ve been doing a fair amount of cruising, which is mostly waiting of course. The boat has full navigation equipment and autopilot, so most of the time you just keep an eye out looking for shallow water and possible obstacles. When the weather is still and the water sheltered, cruising is quite stable, and you can do other things like read, nap, or write on the computer. That’s the kind of cruising we’ve been doing the last couple of days. On rougher seas, things get a bit more active, and it takes all of your attention just to hold on. We have a stabilizing sail that reduces the rolling, but this is not the most stable boat I’ve seen. Charlie says that’s a characteristic of trawlers, and they sometimes get fitted with automatic stabilizers to help. Personally, I found that it took my attention, but didn’t bother me. Lots of people, like Guaba, get seasick. She was a very unhappy dog by the time we got through.

We’ve made a ritual of watching the sunset, hoping to see a green flash. We usually have an open western horizon,but there’s been some sort of haze that partly obscures the sunset as it goes down. No green flash so far, but some pretty sunsets anyway.


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